that’s whacked

Shasta Soreness

Sunday, Jul 6. 2008  –  Category: Outdoors, Travel

I headed up to Mt. Shasta for the July 4th weekend with Jaime & Zac, and after two days there, I think I’m about as sore as I’ve ever been in my life.

On Friday, we ran 5 miles in the Mt. Shasta 4th of July Fun Run. Jaime and I kept pace with each other and came in at 51 minutes (10:12/mile). I’ve no idea whether that’s a good pace or not (Zac came in at 38 minutes, so I suspect not :-P) but that was the first time I’ve ever done a timed race past P.E. class in high school, so I was pretty happy. That was also the first time I’ve run any distance more than a mile or two, and I felt it…

The rest of Friday was spent stretching groaning calves and quads.

A sane person probably would have taken Saturday off to rest and recover. Instead, we chose to hike 2 miles in (with a 1200 foot elevation gain) in Castle Crags State Park to the base of Six Toe Rock, where we climbed Six Toe Crack, an absolutely gorgeous 5.7-5.8 3 pitch crack. The weather was beautiful… sunny (but the route was in the shade) with a cool breeze. The first pitch had a tough start, and a tough second crack - but was definitely doable and within the 5.7/5.8 rating. The second pitch was where things got tough. I took my longest trad leaderfall yet, falling about 20 feet. I placed a #7 Trango Flexcam, got about 5 feet above it, and was stuck in an off-width 5.9 shoulder jam. I worked it for a minute or two, thought I was making progress and ended up pitching off, and falling my total 20 feet.

It was strange, it happened so quickly - I don’t even remember the fall. All I recall is my left hand losing grip, me pitching backwards, screaming (yes - my first scream of my climbing career too… this weekend was full of firsts), and coming to a stop looking down at the sky and my feet. Yup, I’d managed to completely invert myself. I righted myself, took a few seconds to catch my breath (some combination of the fall and the harness tightening had knocked the wind out of me), and checked myself out for injuries. I ended up hitting my left calf against an outcropping getting some road rash (all superficial, so it should heal fine - though showers will be a bitch for the next few days), and getting a nasty nasty rope burn on my right bicep (which strangely doesn’t hurt - but is making for a real pretty bruise).

Anyway, I took a 5.7 variation off to the right hand side after that, finished the pitch and brought Jaime & Zac up. After some route-finding (the guidebook was vague as to the finish for this climb), we ended up on the summit, rewarded with a fairly large summit top, and a gorgeous 360 degree view of the rest of Castle Crags, and Mt. Shasta in the distance.

This was definitely the most challenging lead of my life so far… this whole day I’ve been thinking “What if that #7 cam hadn’t held?” I would have ended up pitching down about 40 feet - almost certainly injuring myself seriously. I’m thankful I sank that cam, and I’m really thankful it held. Taking a leaderfall occasionally is a good reminder not to get lazy and run things out unnecessarily.

Some thoughts and notes for anyone looking to climb this rock: The guidebook is good, but gives no sense of scale. I went in thinking this would be like Castle Rock in Saratoga… a meandering trail with rocks scattered here and there to climb. WRONG. The hike isn’t easy (though the trail is fantastic), and the rocks are MASSIVE. Purportedly there is a 8 pitch 1000′ climb (which I’m dying to do next time I can get up there). The rock quality is great (not as good as Tuolumne/Yosemite, but definitely better than the sandstone we get here in the Bay Area). I highly recommend Six Toe Crack - it’s one of the most beautiful cracks I’ve done, and is a great rewarding climb with solid anchors. (3 pitches, the first belay station is 2 old bolts backed up with a new bolt, new chains, and new webbing. Second belay station is a solid outcropping/flake slung with at least 6 pieces of webbing and rap rings. Contrary to what the guidebook says, the summit is topped with one old sketchy bolt (the one it says to rap off of), with two brand new bolts and two shiny shiny chains). We ended up rapping the three pitches back down the crack instead of doing the sketchy looking descent gully.

catchup rambling

Friday, Feb 8. 2008  –  Category: OpenSolaris, OpenSource, Outdoors, Pets, Songbird

i propose starting a new trend in web 2.0. first there was blogging. then there was microblogging (aka twitter’ing). i propose to start time-batch concatenating micro-blogging, or twitter with a touch of both diarrhea and constipation if you will.

so here’s my spew of random micro-blogging-type thoughts, concatenated into one post.

• psyched to be going to London for a week. looking forward to hopefully dropping by the LOSUG meeting while i’m there. would give my left nut to get tickets to the Arsenal/AC Milan Champions League game.

• super-psyched about FOSDEM. little bit nervous to be presenting my first conference preso about Songbird. looking forward to moules et frites with timf, catching up with other various OpenSolaris folk, and meeting more of the Mozilla Community.

• steak and bj day. seriously. i’m so in.

• i’m so desperate to go up to the sierras. i haven’t gone snowboarding at all this winter, and its been dumping lately. sigh. brand new snowboard and everything.

• work is keeping me so busy. feel like every day i finish 5 tasks only to add 7 more to the plate. i was expecting as much when i left Sun… and i love the work and my coworkers, but wow i could use a few days off.

• had a shite day at the gym yesterday, couldn’t get up the V2 & V3 routes i was able to do two weeks ago. ugh. starting to get really psyched about climbing Cathedral Peak with jesse in june though. i think my strength is there, but i could definitely do with some sustained route-climbing to build up the endurance. should probably go out somewhere (diablo maybe?) to practice some trad placements in case my rusty.

• isis is definitely getting worse. we’re taking her to the vet on saturday, but i suspect her time is near. she’s eating slower, and starting to strain so hard her body shakes a lot of the time she’s awake. her 10th birthday is in 10 days. bumming me out.

• great to see benr, tamr, and to finally meet derek c at redmonk’s party a couple of nights ago. cheers to sogrady for a great party and for the beer.

• i feel like i’m spending so much time in front of my computer lately, and not nearly enough time outdoors or with the dogs. gotta figure out this work/life balance thing.

death at Cathedral

Friday, Jan 4. 2008  –  Category: Outdoors

Oakland climber dies descending Cathedral Peak

A bit late, but I only just found out about this from the SuperTopo monthly email. A bummer to hear about, to be sure - especially with them having already ascended, and descended and only being a mile and a half from 120.

I have my own love-hate-hate relationship with Cathedral Peak having tried to climb it 3 times and only been successful once. Indeed, two summers ago we got stuck in our own late-afternoon Tuolumne-special storm, though early August is considerably more forgiving than mid-November.

Jesse and I have planned to tackle Cathedral Peak again this summer. I’m hoping to bump my success rate from 33% to 50%; but we’ll see… I know I’m bringing a barometer and will be pushing for an early morning, early summer start.

Sigh. It’s always a little unnerving to hear about someone dying on a route you’ve climbed… worse yet when it’s a route you’re planning to climb in the near future. My sympathies go out to Noble’s family and friends. At least he died doing something he loved.

jtreeeee!

Thursday, Mar 18. 2004  –  Category: Outdoors

awwwwwww yeah! going down to LA this weekend for some SWEEEEET joshua tree rock climbing action. i’m so psyched, i can’t wait to go.